Hi Ryan,
Oh thats rather depressing news!
It's true that without Dreamweavers design view I wouldn't know where to start but I'm sure there's a happy medium somewhere.
The counter is a hidden hit counter which didn't show its text initially so I need to check why that's now happening..
I think the load time can be reduced by taking some of the preload images out but the site is full of images so I knew a preloader was essential because the home page has mouseovers that dont show until the load is complete.
The mask could be made to be slightly see through so that its not such a closed door while waiting maybe...
But youve spent enough time on this...I think I should battle on alone now!
Your advice has been invaluable
